Wednesday, July 6, 2011

If the shoe fits...

So, I have these shoes. You've probably seen them. Lace-up ankle boots, 2-inch heel, rounded toe. Heck, you've probably complimented them if you've seen me any time in the past 14 months. They're a bit great. Before then, they belonged to my sister. And before that, who knows the life they led. My sister likes to say that I stole them from her, but I remember it differently. A few days before I left for my overseas adventure last year, she handed me a notebook, a card detailing advice she had picked up from her own gap-year travels (in that characteristic manner and style only my sister can write in) and these shoes. My last true hand-me-down, rather than just 'hand-it-overs' as all our subsequent clothing swaps have seemed to be. And so I left, the boots carefully tucked into my suitcase. And they've been with me everywhere ever since.

But nowadays they ain't looking too great. They are world-weary and tired and worn-out. Literally. There are holes in the soles that go through to my socks, the toes are scuffed and even the ribbon makeshift laces have snapped so many times they hardly exist. I mean, I can still wear them... on sunny days... with thick socks... if I feel like putting myself through excruciating pain... And yet it's still worth it every time.

And I know the solution seems clear: just get them repaired, buy new laces, give them a polish. They'll be good as new, pretty as ever, breathing with new life. But to me it's not that simple. You see, I've walked around the world in these shoes. No, really. There wasn't one country out of the 12 that I visited in 8 months where I didn't wear these shoes. Talk about boots made for walking. And sure, sometimes I still got shoe envy (mainly because of my Edinburgh Festival roommate's Kurt Geigers, but let's face it, who wouldn't?) and sometimes I would pass them over for my tattered ballet flats but the fact remains that every time I wore them I left a little taller. Yes, ha-ha-ha, I'm so funny. I didn't mean literally, thank you. Though actually that probably has something to do with it.

The thing is, ingrained in each crack and crevice of these shoes is the gravel, dirt and memories of the streets - cobblestoned or otherwise - that I strolled over eight months. These shoes were with me every step of the way. They have seen places that I myself may never see again. How can I consider paving over the history of these shoes, erasing their memories? Instead, shouldn't I frame them, hang them on my wall and thus immortalise every story that these shoes would tell if only its tongue could speak.

I mean, I wore these shoes when I wore my first overseas purchase - an olive-green vintage jumpsuit from Brick Lane. Incidentally, this is also the night I saw the mesmerising Nnenna Freelon perform at Ronnie Scott's. In these shoes, I danced til dawn at the Bongo Club, the Hive, Cabaret Voltaire, god knows where else, after a long night at the box office or after seeing couple of Edinburgh Fringe shows. I wore these shoes in Berlin on my first European pub crawl; I have a blurry, swirly memory getting up on stage whilst a heavy rock band was playing in an dingy underground club so I could tie up my already breaking shoelaces.

I wore these shoes when I visited Auschwitz. I know that doesn't sound like a practical decision - you'd be right, it wouldn't be - but really it was because my cousin and I weren't planning on going when we did and these shoes were all I had. But, like the unpleasantness of the rain and bitter cold, the discomfort felt fitting. It felt right to suffer a little for the experience. And it's an experience I do not yet have - and indeed may never have - the words or understanding to express. But my shoes were there, you know? They get it.

And these shoes heard the 6-hour long conversation my cousin and I had with Lars the Norwegian Academic, at a jazz bar in Paris. We talked about the invention of modern literature, Coleridge's notion of the secondary imagination, the wonders of Romanticism, world politics, the aftermath of World War II. We talked about language and music and travelling and jazz and life stories. The importance of stories. And we mused over interesting foreign beer. Which we sampled aplenty over the many hours. Which regrettably, as a result, my boots probably remember more of the specifics of that epic conversation than I do.

Then alas, almost falling down some iron steps in Barcelona because one of the heels of my dear shoes had broken right off. And, despite the ridiculousness of me walking around lopsided for the rest of the night, I felt no anger, or even humiliation (though I don't think that had anything to do with the shoes themselves). Rather, I felt a tinge of guilt. For weeks my shoes had been exhausted, travel-weary, wobbling to the end of their tether, and I hadn't listened.

My shoes were repaired by a cobbler in Chieti, a small town in Italy. He was a small, quiet old man sitting behind a workshop bench in a tiny, dirty shop. He had my shoes ready for me that very afternoon, the heel fastened on sturdily, freshly polished for no extra charge. And so our adventure together continued through art galleries of Florence, gelatarie in Bologna, London theatres... These shoes have even walked past Helena Bonham-Carter on Hampstead Main Street, you know.

Then, across the Atlantic, to the freezing winds of the New York City winter; my dear boots providing me that tiny extra bit of chic so that I could walk amongst those trendy New Yorkers despite my bright red coat standing out against the sea of sophisticated black. My boots felt the snow left behind by the day-after-Christmas blizzard beneath them. Unfortunately, so did I as my adventures had well and truly worn my dear friends out. So, after one long day of walking around with freezing, wet, numb, frostbitten toes, I put my shoes to rest until I reached the sunnier shores of San Francisco, Santa Monica and, finally, home.

But there is one place - just one - where I didn't wear my shoes when I deeply and truly wish I had. There is a place on the Danube Promenade in Budapest, Hungary where 60 pairs of cast-iron, 40s style shoes stand beside the great river that separates Buda and Pest. Fresh flowers are tucked into some of the shoes, lit candles stand beside others. On the side is a plaque: "To the memory of the victims shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militalia men in 1944-45." I looked down to see my boots staring back at me - but I wasn't wearing them that day, I was wearing tatty purple sneakers. No, they were just boots that looked like my boots, cast in iron; stuck to the ground, to that history, to that memory. How I wished I had my own shoes at that moment, to place them side by side on that bank so they too could soak up the beautiful, bitterly sad memorial. Instead, I sat alone by the bank until the sun finished setting, red flooding the water. I left when the river turned an inky black.

Perhaps it is for the best. My shoes are filled to the brim with stories. Stories about meeting new friends, reconnecting with some old ones and drifting away from others. Stories of finding family, crossing language barriers, geographical barriers, personal barriers. Stories of wild nights and hidden cafes and dancing and reading and laughing and drinking tea. Stories of discovery, experience, exploration, conversation. Stories of stories. It wouldn't be fair to burden my boots with every single one. They're falling apart enough as it is.

The question stands thus: Is the sole of a shoe really the soul of a shoe? If I cover up those gaping holes that reveal the balls of my feet am I erasing the miles I've walked in these shoes? Though I know it won't erase history, will I destroy the most unique historical artifact I have of my time abroad? Is that reason enough to put them on the shelf for good? Or, would it be better to repair the shoes - perhaps paving over past adventures - in order to give the shoes the opportunity to experience new ones? For once again I find I am about embark overseas to a familiar location but to completely new, exciting and terrifying experiences. Do I start completely afresh? Find a new pair of perfect shoes (if such a thing exists) whilst my dear old friends stay behind, retired, their adventure over. But perhaps if I repaired them and brought them with me the familiarity would be comforting; not only could they possibly still bring me memories of my past travels but also of my time at home - how many times have these shoes walked down Australia Street? I'm not sure I want to leave them behind. I'm not sure I can.

I need your help. I am indecisive and sentimental and I place far too much importance in the symbolism of my possessions. What do you think I should do?
To mend or not to mend?
















Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Here's where the "trains" part comes in...

Alrighty. Time to attempt to tackle the crazy 2 months I spent training it around Europe. Going to have to go about it systematically, city by city, bulletpoint by bulletpoint, or it'll just never get done, you know?


I'll start of by saying: I love travelling. I do. But travelling? It sucks. Like the physical moving from country to country? Not fun. Not fun at all. You know who suck? Like really really suck? Train station employees. Seriously. Never have I met more vindictive, horrible, rude, unhelpful, hindering, soul-crushing people in my life. And I used to be a telemarketer. So that is why with each city I will also volunteer the charming transport horror story that accompanied me on that particular travel.

Enjoy.

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Edinburgh started off feeling a little like an alternative reality. Like in the Wizard of Oz when Dorothy transforms her reality on the farm into characters in her dream - everyone reminded me of someone back home. More interestingly, they didn't always stay the same person, but they'd morph into someone else. Within a day, they could go from reminding me so strongly of one person to the spitting image of someone completely different. Maybe it was that strange sense of familiarity that made me feel so immediately drawn to some of them. But within a few days they morphed again - now when I saw them, I saw each person for themselves. And that's when they stopped being 'them' and we started being 'us'.

And this happened remarkably quickly. One day we were all making small talk, just trying to remember each others' names then suddenly I realised that by lunchtime I already missed the faces I hadn't seen yet that day.

I wish I had words to write about each and every person who came to mean so much to me over my month in Edinburgh. I wish you could have known them like I did. I can't write anything about them individually - not yet. I'm afraid that if I do, my memory of them will deteriorate into just words on a page - like fictitious characters - because I do not have the talent to portray them justly. I'll romanticise, hyperbolise, sentimentalise. And no one likes sentimental word vomit. All that needs to be said right now is that I miss them. I miss Zoo Venues. I miss the festival. I miss August 2010 so much that my heart is actually aching just thinking about it.

Soon, I promise, I will write about the people I met, the shows I saw, the work I did, the places I went. But for now, I'm just going to leave it here. Probably because of aforementioned heartache.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

13 plays in 17 days? OK!

Alright, so technically they weren't all plays. But 'theatrical performances' didn't have quite the same ring. You ready for this? Let's go.

NB: Man, I wish I had written this all down after I had seen each play. I wish I had held on to the even the finest details of each of these productions. So, I'm not going to bother reviewing them all properly, I'm not in the right frame of mind, and besides, I'm sure I won't say anything that the Guardian hasn't said better. But I do have some thoughts here and there.


1. After the Dance by Terrance Rattigan at the National Theatre - Sunday 11th July

http://www.guardian.co.uk/stage/2010/jun/09/after-the-dance-theatre-review

Everything about this production was fine - the dialogue was witty, the actors were engaging, the costumes were glamorous. But one thing it wasn't was memorable.


2. All My Sons by Arthur Miller at the Apollo - Monday 12th July
http://www.guardian.co.uk/stage/2010/may/28/all-my-sons-michael-billington


An all-star cast performance with David Suchet (ie Poirot), Zoe Wanamaker (Madame Hooch from Harry Potter, amongst more important things) and Jemima Rooper (remember Lost in Austen? Yeah, that girl. But don't hold it against her, she's really is very talented). Oh, and a WAAPA grad. Who'd have thunk it? Though not my favourite Arthur Miller play (I think Death of a Salesman will always claim that title for me - too many brilliant associated memories), this production of All My Sons was somewhat of a masterpiece. The director and cast really played with the text, bringing out every nuance of light and shade in the quintessentially Miller dialogue.

However, I do have one small criticism. Though the acting was exceptional - tear your heart out, lump in the throat, shivers down the spine exceptional - most of the actors, including Suchet and Rooper, being British, just didn't nail the American accent. It's something I proceeded to encounter in a number of subsequent productions, this sort of almost-there-but-not-quite, that doesn't detract from the performance per say but just calls for a stronger suspension of disbelief.

Certainly didn't stop me from tearing up when Wanamaker heart-breakingly finishes the play with 'Live... forget now... live.'


3. Through a Glass Darkly at the Almeida Theatre - Tuesday 13th July


For me, the play had very little to do with her supposed religious calling, and much more to do with her mental illness and the way it affected her family, or was caused by her family, or calmed by family. The intricate interaction between the characters in the play, and the characters in her head.

It was so frighteningly real, by the end of it I was almost sobbing because it's so terrifying to watch a person break down like that right in front of you. But it was more than that. You felt her pain, her confusion, her paranoia, her struggle so acutely it began to manifest within you, and you felt yourself going mad in empathy. And that what theatre's supposed to be, right?

I came out of the theatre shaking, swearing I never wanted to feel like that again, in awe that Ruth Wilson - and indeed the rest of the quartet - has the strength to become - that - every night. But then, as the shakes subsided, I realised how incredible it felt to feel something that strong even just be association. Imagine the catharsis Wilson et al must feel every night - how sublime. And I realised: I would do it. I would make myself that insane, go through that agony, every day of the run, get so deep inside that character you have to you have to physically rip yourself out after every performance just to keep functioning. To be part of a production like that, to portray a woman as interesting as that, to perform a play as important as that... I would do it.


4. As You Like It directed by Sam Mendes at the Old Vic - Wednesday 14th of July

A much needed light-hearted romp after light night's still-haunting darkness. Though, darkness came regardless. Just while Rosalind is reading a letter, there was a complete blackout in the theatre. Apparently it affected much of the Waterloo area and we had to wait for 20 minutes for the production to be back up and running. What was so great was the actors' quick-thinking responses to the blackout: 'Ah, someone seems to have blown out the candle, the rest of the letter I cannot make out...' and 'Pray tell me, where didst I get up to before?'

It was a brilliant production, the dialogue was conversational, natural but quick and clever, and carefully considered. Just how I like my Shakespeare: well done. The forest was minimal but effective, with shadows making multiplying the few bare trees on the stage. Being an ensemble project, the cast really fed off one another which was great to see. I think it was a production companies for young people would have really learned a lot from.

During the curtain call I always watch the interactions between the actors on stage, those little grins they give each other, the small comment, a quick laugh. A happy glance. It's about now that I start to think that maybe it's not such a good idea for me to be watching so much theatre. Because with each production, with each curtain call, I become more and more restless in my seat. Every show makes me more sure. I'm afraid to admit how much I want to be up there with them, part of that world, their world. I don't want to be a spectator anymore. Not only. But I'm terrified of what I know that means.

So what do I do? I see more theatre.



5. Political Mother by Hofesh Shechter at Sadler's Wells - Thursday 15th July


Eat your heart out, Jardi Tancat. Talk about manipulation of motifs derived from folk dance to portray the struggles of the people. I'm going to keep this as short as possible, because once I get started it'll just turn into a 6000 word essay on the manipulation of space, time and dynamics, and that's a head space I really don't want to get into on my year-long holiday but really easily could because - CONFESSION - I actually really enjoyed writing dance essays. BUT NOT TODAY, CHILDREN.

Right, well, first of all, I was sitting so far back I thought the musicians were supposed to appear headless. Which maybe I should tell Shechter about, because it was a pretty cool artistic element - those beating the drums, those providing the rhythm that both allowed and dictated the rhythms in the movement, were faceless. A omnipresent, anonymous presence. Or, that's just me trying to make the most out of my £10 seat.

You know, given the almost constant head-thrashing metal music, and the repetitive, ungraceful movements of the dancers, this was not a performance that I enjoyed watching. But it was certainly one I appreciated very much. The control these dancers had over their bodies was incredible - how they knew the exact degree in which to give in to or defy gravity; how the movement could be curved, slumped even, seemingly imprecise, then suddenly flick; the unity they were able to create despite the movement flowing colloquially. Twitching, contorting, slumping into these ugly, emotive, painful shapes, while the music pounded relentlessly in my ear. I'll admit it was a relief when it was over, but the performance stayed with me long after and I realised I actually wanted to watch it again - see those amazing bodies create that agony, that frustration, anger, helplessness, defeat. So that maybe I could start to understand.


6. Legally Blonde the Musical at the Savoy Theatre - Friday 16th July.


And now for something COMPLETELY different. Listen, before you start judging me, I went because everyone was raving about it and there were like a million critics who said it was amazing, hilarious, fun, endearing, expectation-exceeding, blah blah blah. They were all wrong (that includes YOU, Michael Billington. I don't care if you do write for the Guardian). What it really was was insulting to my intelligence (and sort of to women in general), humiliating for those on stage and a complete disregard of everything that made the movie so great. And worst of all? The audience lapped up every second of it.

You know, maybe I'm exaggerating. But only slightly. Yes, okay, some of the actors were quite funny, they all had their little moments. And I suppose it could be seen as 'fun'... maybe I'm taking it all a bit too seriously. And, by all accounts the Broadway production is legitimately good. Not that I'm going to spend the money to find out. But I think the reason I didn't enjoy it whilst supposedly respectable critics did was that I love the movie, and they don't. Because they immediately write off the movie as trash, and because this production treats the movie like trash, I guess it's a match made in heaven.

Firstly, instead of Elle making the decision to grow as a person, she is almost forced by others who make those changes for her, completely negating the self-power and integrity shown by Woods in the film which should be the whole focus of Elle's character development and what makes her so endearing. It's what gets us on her side. It's what stops her from being 'just another blonde'. Instead, in an attempt to be 'humorously self-deprecating', they turn her into a caricature of a caricature, making her completely unrelatable (is that not a word?) and thus she never grows out of the ditz, the joke, everyone thinks she is to begin with.

The choreography was fairly cringe-worthy. The chorus of sorority girls so nasal and high pitched beyond any comedic effect I had to block my ears, though I'm sure most of the sounds they were making only dogs could hear. The music itself was unremarkable, in fact rather cliche, with the exception of a few brilliant numbers ('Ireland', 'Gay or European'), and contained no layers, no depth. Also, remember what I was saying before about British performers and American accents? Yeah, ouch. Bit awkward at times.

All this said, the production really lifted its game in the second act. I even started to enjoy myself a little. So, while I didn't come out hating it, Edwina and I spent the next two hours sitting on Trafalgar Square steps enthusiastically discussing everything we could have done to make it better.


7. Hair at the Gieguld Theatre - Saturday 17th July


My god, what a ridiculously talented bunch of young people! It was a very interactive show, lots of young hippies grinding provocatively in your face or handing you flowers. While I have my doubts about the plot, or lack thereof, and the book, the people really made this performance. Their voices blended so perfectly with one another and they were such a strong ensemble who really supported each other. You could just tell how happy they were to be on stage and their energy was electrifying. At the end, when they're singing 'Let the Sun Shine In' (the soloists being one of the most incredible young vocalists I've ever seen) their voices fill every bit of the space so powerfully. Not for the first time, and certainly not for the last, I craved to stand with them, sing with them, cry with them. Maybe then I'd feel full too.

Oh, and I got really excited because I was like 'Finally, some really brilliant American accents on the West End!'... and then I realised it was the touring Broadway cast. Oh. That explains it.



8. War Horse with the National Theatre at the New London Theatre - Monday 19th July


Now that... is theatre.

Renders me completely speechless, as you can probably tell.

Which doesn't usually happen, as you can probably tell.


9. Prisoner of 2nd Avenue by Neil Simon at the Vaudeville Theatre - Wednesday 21st July


What can I say? I thought this play was hilarious and touching. Absolutely loved it. Goldblum, Ruehl: you're both champs.


10. Avenue Q at Wyndhams Theatre - Friday 23rd July


Yes, okay, yes, this was my fourth time seeing Avenue Q (3rd on the West End). It's become a bit of a tradition. See, every time the cast changes (which happens to be when I'm in town), I hit the Ave Q to see what the fuzz is about. (See what I did there?) Only this time is the last time because - tragically - it has finished. Whilst Mamma Mia still goes strong. There is no justice in the world. Though this cast (nor any other) could ever exceed the original West End cast I saw four years ago, they certainly did not disappoint. Even with my crazy-high standards for Kate Monster after seeing Julie Atherton perform it perfectly twice. But her replacement had the same emotional energy though her voice and puppet control was slightly inferior, which still makes her amazing.

This musical just makes me so happy.



11. Coppelia at the Royal Opera House - Saturday 24th July


I'd been to the ballet at the Royal Opera House 3 times before and everyone time sitting (or standing) in the back row. And this time was no exception. Experiencing the theatre like a proper pleb, I am. It was the first time I'd ever seen Coppelia, and I gotta admit, a tad underwhelmed. Except the last act, those solos were awesome. But it's a cute little story nonetheless, I guess I was expecting more of an epic, but the ballet as a whole is rather endearing. And the lead was effortlessly awe-inspiring - the best kind. And the dance acting provided me with much amusement - I really do love to hate it, it just looks so ridiculous!



12. The Tempest directed by Sam Mendes at the Old Vic - Monday 26th July

http://www.oldvictheatre.com/whatson.php?id=58

Is it just me, or is the Tempest just a little bit shit? Soz, Shakespeare buddy, defs not your best. So although Sam Mendes and the wonderful cast from As You Like It did what they could, I just couldn't help but be a tad bored, and found my mind wandering, half hoping for another blackout to liven things up a tad. You know, for a play all about magic, it certainly doesn't contain much itself.


13. La Bete by David Hirson at the Comedy Theatre - Wednesday 28th July

One of those times when you have to ask - what are the big names really doing there? While it was a huge novelty to see the great Joanna Lumley on stage, her character - through little fault of her own - was completely nondescript and could have been played by anyone. Massive highlight though, was the character Valere's very long opening monologue consisting entirely in rhyming couplets which was brilliantly performed and extremely funny. That is, when you're actually paying attention. Which was hard to do for the entire 25 minutes. The whole play - which is very eccentric, set in 1654 and written in rhyming couplets, and just generally a bit bonkers - actually falls a little flat. Whether that was the fault of the writer or the director it's hard to say, but my immediate thought at the end was: 'Is that it?'



'Wow,' I'm sure you're thinking, 'You must be really sick of theatre now.'

But you ain't seen nothing yet. You think 13 shows in 17 days is a considerable effort? Try 2-4 shows in 1 day.

Next stop: Edinburgh Fringe Festival.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

RSC (Stratford-Upon-Avon - 6th-9th of July)


King Lear

It was a truly breathtaking production, seamlessly amalgamating traditionalism and industralism with grand, dusty chandeliers hanging alongside decaying fluorescent lights. The calibre of the acting was truly outstanding, and their deep understanding and passionate enjoyment of the text was obvious and infectious. The biggest problem I had with the actors was that Edmund (though exceptionally talented) was distractingly goodlooking. In fact, by the end of the play he'd quite easily persuaded me to his side. (YEAH! Take it all, Edgar!)

The storm was incredible. Lighting rigs fell from the ceiling, the iron wall backdrop collapsed with a huge bang on the floor, the deafening noise surrounding you. And there was Lear, alone, drenched in the rain that poured down on only him.


It's difficult to describe how I felt while I watched the production. It was like I loved it too much - it made me greedy. I wanted more; I wanted to taste it, absorb every minute into my being. I wanted to pack it all up and put it in my pocket and carry it around with me always. A tad creepy, I know. I felt a certain panic - like I couldn't hold on to each moment tightly enough. And I was heartbroken I couldn't stand on that stage and feel that... fullness? Connection?... that could only happen as a result of being a part of such a production. Instead, I walked home alone along the dark cobblestone streets of the tiny town.


Morte D'Arthur



It was bound to happen, when seeing a play sandwiched between two Shakespeare ones. The language was simply shown up as being blatantly not as good. And the production as a whole was rather boring. I won't waste your time or mine by going into details, but the whole production seemed rather tiring and superfluous - the constant narration by very detached chorus members, the plot that went all over the place and yet no where, the affected attempt to intergrate modern references and jokes... Also, the fact that I was overcome with hayfever halfway through and my nose started running like a tap (attractive, I know) probably didn't help. Despite this, one could still appreciate the calibre of the actors (bar one that really jarred me) and becaise of this, the play reminded me of a talented company at Newtown getting shafted with a hopeless director. A shame, but seeing as I paid £5 for the ticket (oh, did I mention King Lear was free? FREE?) I can't really complain. Not that its ever stopped me before.


Romeo and Juliet

This was the first professional production of the play I had ever seen and once again I was blown away by the sheer greatness of the actors involved. Particularly the nurse - whose purpose in the play I'd never really had a reason to acknowledge until RSC. It was not until this production that I fully comprehended that it is the nurse who not only enables the drama, but catalyises the conflict - the miscommunication that leads to the eventual tragedy. And this actress was an absolute gem. Playing her as an old no-nonsense Caribbean woman, it was so invigorating to see an actor so effortlessly makes the most of every moment they have. Even more invigorating was that she wasn't the only one. Each actor in the company cherished each line and action, which made the play so engrossing, despite the fact I was so familiar with it.



Unfortunately, conceptually the play fell a little flat. Again, I blame bad direction - a naive assumption that the story had to be integrated into the 21st Century. The majority of set and costume was Gothic Era but R+J were dressed in jeans and Chucks - playing opn the whole 'rebellious adolescents' thing. It came off as a bit contrived but the gorgeous chemistry between the two stopped it from tainting the performance too much. One particular cool feature was that the all-too-famous opening monologue was given as a voice over - heard by characters as if by a tour guide in a museum. An interesting and different way to take us in to the world of the play, which I soon found myself completely engrossed in. As if I had never seen the play before.

I felt such a pang of panic at every wrong turn. Why couldn't they just have...? But if this hadn't happened... If only...

I'm not going to lie. I cried.




And so ended my RSCathon. I can honestly say I've fallen in love with the whole company and could only console myself by spending copious monies in the RSC Giftshop. This included a canvas bag with this:



Wicked.

And some badges that say 'Eat my leek' and 'He's a saucy fellow'. Ahh, retail therapy, you never fail me.


One day, I went for a bicycle ride through the Stratford countryside.

Then, I got tired, and stopped for a snack. And wrote this post into my little diary.



A thought from September...

I'd like to tell you a story. At the beginning of this year, I attended a party in Marrickville. It was a pretty nondescript night; I just sat in the garden and had a few beers and chatted topeople I didn't see all that much any more now that school was well and truly over. Nice, casual, relaxed. The party broke up relatively early - for reasons I can no longer remember - and all-to-soon everyone started to separate, wandering off in the direction of 'home'. A fewof us tried to 'keep the party going' by heading to a friend's house in Newtown but shortlyafter arriving, I said my goodbyes and left. I think that night marked my final acceptance of the inevitable deterioration of my most very close circle of friends - both due to geographica land other reasons - and I needed some air and some space to think.

I walked slowly though the streets of Newtown, streets I probably should have been weary of walking along so early in the morning, but streets that were so familiar to me I never even thought of it. At the top of Australia Street, despite my musing, I noticed an office wheelie cheer lying abandoned at the top of the hill. Those who know me well know my love for spinning wheelie chairs, and riding down hills, and so of course I was not able to resist seizing the opportunity to combine the two. At 3am, the streets were silent, save for the awkwardly loudscraping of gravel as I pulled the chair into a prime position in the middle of the road. (It didn't occur to me to just pick up the chair...) I sat down, and without a second thought - without weighing pros and cons, listing consequences, without even making a conscious decision - I kicked my feet off the ground and let gravity work its magic.

It felt like flying.

And as I flew, I also spun in circles; uncontrolled, unplanned, unanalysed. And I felt my speed pick up, and the wind through my hair, in my face, cutting through the muggy summer night. The world was a blur and I could hear myself laughing and my heart beating loudly over the deafening rumble of plastic on gravel.

I think that may be the most free I have ever felt.

But, as I came to a graceful (ha!) stop at the corner of my street, I heard pointed laughter. A couple taking a midnight stroll were laughing at my mode of transport (hey, it was cheaper than a taxi!) I pushed the chair in their direction. 'Don't knock it until you've tried it,' I advised them. As I let myself into the house, I heard the unmistakable rumbling accompanied by whoops and shouts of joy, and one long 'Wheeeeeee!'. I went to sleep that night grinning.


Now, the reason I'm telling you this, and the reason I've been thinking about it a lot recently is because I think that's what I expected this trip to feel like. Unencombered freedom, and the opportunity to let go. And it has felt like that, I think, kind of, more than ever before, I suppose. I'm flying down that hill but sometimes I find myself scraping my feet on the ground, desperately trying to slow myself down or direct myself back to the middle of the road.

You know, this isn't always a bad thing. I'm grateful in a way - that un-switch-off-ableautopilot has probably stopped me from doing a lot of stupid things (and even once or twice has kicked in a bit late) but you always end up remembering those things you didn't do. Or rather, I always remember the things I didn't do. Financially, experientially, romantically, geographically, characteristically speaking.

More than anything, I hope by the end of this trip I'll have learnt to freefall.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Les Eurockeenes (2th-5th of July)

It was hot. And it was dusty. So dusty in fact that when I returned and showered, most of my celebrated tan washed away. That is, except for two patches of horrid red on my back which is due to either sunburn or being repetitively thrown into the air by a bunch of 30-year-old British guys who were on their stag weekend during the Hives. Who were awesome, by the way. The Hives, that is. And that was the only time it rained (or, more accurately, poured) - during their set - and if the through of mine and Molly's tent having a few holes in it never thought to cross my mind, it would have been the perfect accompaniment to thousands and thousands of people dancing crazily after an unbearably hot day.

I - to put it very simply - had a freaking awesome time. It was just so much fun. The atmosphere was very relaxed, one might even say nonchalant, but there was a great, friendly vibe that surrounded that.

Here are some things that happened over my 3 days in Belfort. (In no particular order)

  • They had these large helium balloons for sale in the shape of various characters. All of whom were ignored except for Spongebob Square pants and his friend Patrick. Whenever the crowd caught sight of one of these bogging just above everyone's heads, they'd start chanting 'Spongebob libere!' (Free Spongebob!) until finally the balloon was released into the air and floated off into the distance. The thousands in the crowd would cheer deafeningly for the cartoon characters' liberty - louder even than they would cheer for the bands on stage. but the sheer ridiculousness of their enthusiasm was so infectious, and I found myself shouting 'Patrick libere! Patrick libere!' as loud as the rest of them by the second day.
  • The festival started at about 5pm (but the best acts weren't on until 7pm-midnight) and we never got back to the tent before 3am. Usually, the sun was waking as we went to sleep and we'd walk through the campsite towards our tent watching the sun creep slowly up behind the misty mountains of South-East France not too far in the distance. However - though beautiful - the sun quickly proved it was not our friend. Very early in the morning, Molly and I would awake suddenly to find ourselves burning (or melting at least) in the claustrophobic tent. Opening the tent flap or attempting to sleep outside was futile - the vast, flat meadow did not accommodate for any shade whatsoever and there was no escape from the sun. However, because the festival didn't start until evening, there was ample time to chill out and relax during the day. Which usually involved scouting out and grabbing any patch of shade you could and not leaving except to get yourself a nutella crepe... or a coffee ice cream... or more often than not a Heineken.
  • My favourite acts were the Hives and the Dead Weather. The former I have been waiting years to see live (and was definitely not disappointed) and the other I had hardly heard of (because I'm so behind the times). For the record, yes, Jack White is a genius on stage. He has an inexplicable charisma, which only highlights what a talented musician he really is. As Molly so wisely pointed out, you can feel him lead the band; drive and command and direct the band even though he's almost out of sight at the back of the stage playing the drums. And, although I enjoyed several other acts (Hot Chip, LCD Soundsystem, Julian Casablancas, Kasabian, The Black Keys, even Jay-Z) those were the two in which I really connected to the music itself, rather than simply enjoying the festival experience and atmosphere. What I really love about the lead singer of the Hives - and of course the band as an entity - is his obvious sincere belief in the power of rock and roll. You just knew he truly loved the music he was playing, but more than just music. It was a belief system. And that might sound - whatever - but when that passion and that energy is projected and spread around the thousands in the crowd like wildfire in what is both strongly collective and quietly personal, it is very powerful, and not to be underestimated.
  • As I haven't been staying in hostels or anything since I arrived, Les Eurockeenes was my first real example of how easy it is to make friends amongst travellers. Like having a suitcase or more accurately, a ridiculously heavy and oversized backpack, was a password into a special club that welcomes its members with open arms. I thoroughly enjoyed meeting almost all the people we did, which in addition to stag-weekend buddies included: an Aussie bloke with an Aussie flag cape who we ran into many times. As well as telling us his life story, he also imparted slurred words of wisdom for us young travellers: 'Don't... be afraid to ask yourselves the big questions, yeah? And... don't... be afraid... to answer 'em?' Um, strangely philosophic. Thanks, mate. At first it was a novelty to converse with other Australians, but after meeting some unfriendly Queenslanders and as the festival went on, the Aussie twang and bogan slang became a bit irritating, and later still, rather embarrassing. Along the way we also met a guy who looked like a fawn (who we very imaginatively called 'The Fawn') and his happy, funny, dancing friends who would run off with my sunglasses and laugh at my socks (which were just black and not funny at all); some very shall we say... forward French guys, 3 English guys our age who matched our music tastes to a T who were always arguing with a group of rather obnoxious English girls who lived in the next tent who I awkwardly ended up getting stuck on the plane home with. Just to name a few.
  • Also, you can say what you like about French cuisine - but French fast food is terrible! A tiny bit of lettuce on my burger wouldn't have gone completely astray!
But I am not complaining - I appreciated every minute as part of the festival experience. I really loved my time at Les Eurockeenes. As you can probably tell.